Best Forgotten Crags

When I was a teenager growing up in Wetherby I used to climb at Almscliffe obsessively. I'd cycle there after school and at weekends and would regularly warm up by climbing the classic HVS Great Western. Being a nerd I used to keep a tally chart of Great Western ascents in the back of my guide. I stopped when I ran out of space, after around 500 ascents. All this is so you know that I am as guilty as anyone of visiting the same old crags and doing the same old routes. What follows is by no means a lecture...

The comeback trail hit two neglected but great crags this weekend. Saturday saw us wading the bracing river which guards Chee Tor, these days best known as the Cornice's recluse neighbour. Chee Tor is a brilliant crag which is actually quite popular, but which seems to revert almost instantly to a dust covered, cobwebby heap of vegetable matter when no-ones looking. Mortlock's Arête is a case in point. With the Chris Craggs seal of approval - "one of the best E4s on limestone in the country" - it is deservedly popular. I know of several ascents in 2012 and probably many this year as well. Nevertheless on Saturday, the Arête looked more like a project for a Sarah Beeny makeover than a 3 star route. After several hours shuffling and brushing and sweeping Jules and I topped out with massive grins. A great route! Thanks to the spring clean I gave it on the way down it's also in pretty good nick now. The same goes for Absent Friends, which I gave a good ground up brushing for Jules, who lead it on my gear.

Thor's Cave. Tourist (and death) trap.

To be honest, we both felt a bit burnt out after our Chee Tor day, so a relaxing Sunday bolt-clipping was in order. We tried to get a posse together for a day at Thor's Cave but no-one was biting. Everyone was certain it would be wet. To be honest, based on the descriptions in the Rockfax I don't blame them. The classic 8a, Thormen's Moth is "almost always wet". What bollocks. Thor's doesn't actually seep that badly. Although it can be condensed out on the hottest of summer days, those who visit after a week or two of dry weather will find a smattering of very special routes which will all be dry.

I had my eye on two John Fullwood nuevo-classics from 2006 - Midgard Serpent and Spear of Odin. Midgard is only 7b+ but actually took me a few efforts, one to work out all the kneebars and upside down leg bar trickery and a couple to actually remember it all ground up. The ascent also had a bit of spice when I broke a fragile crimp on the initial wall and hit the starting ledge with some force. Ouchy. Naturally for Spear of Odin I learnt my lesson and stick clipped the first bolt.

I don't know if Spear has had many ascents, but it is hands down one of the best 7c+s in the country. Athletic climbing up the leaning gray prow lead to a tenuous swing out to a small crimp round the corner and a chunky cross through which brings you to an upside down no-hander on a kneebar/toe hook combination. From the no-hander you can hang bat-like and admire the pillar you've just climbed.  Once you've finished posing, some big butch pulls bring you to a cubby-hole in the roof where you can sit and admire your efforts. It's like a bit of Spain brought over to the peak for your climbing pleasure.

Unfortunately it's out of action for a short while. I was wasted from my Midgard efforts and pretty skeptical about my chances so i was chuffed and surprised to find myself in the rest with a full tank of gas. Over-excited, I muffed the sequence out of the rest and fell onto the bolt - which promptly ripped out. Screaming like a hormone-fuelled One Direction fan I swooped towards the shocked tourists and came to a halt, swinging gently about ten feet above their anxious upturned faces. I tried to regain some dignity by acting all casual but I could tell from the look on the two teenage girl's faces that I wasn't fooling anyone.

The offending article

I'll try and get a bolt back in as soon as possible. Until then, there are still plenty of great dry routes at both venues to get stuck into. As for me, I'll see you at the Tor. I've had quite enough of neglected crags for now...