Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Coach's orders...

I'm quite a few weeks into coach Randall's plan now. It's quite a break from what I've been used too. Out go the endless circuits on the foundry bouldering wall (to the delight of the regulars). In comes 4x4s on the lead wall and 'continuity' sessions where I try and climb an "easy" route as many times as I can in 10 minutes. Then do it again. And again. And again, until my eyes bleed.

This weekend I ended up doing 50 for 5 at Kilnsey about 15 times in under an hour. It's surprisingly invigorating and aerobic as you're moving fast enough to get your heart pumping and a proper sweat on. The 4x4s have been the real killer. Initially I was making them a bit too easy, but some stern words from Tom, and a bit of competition to keep up with my training partner (the awesome Emma Twyford) means I've racheted up the intensity, with routes between 7a+ and 7c being lapped in short order. Brutal, but the missus says she can see the difference already, so by the time the nests are vacated, I'll be in crushing form!

The new regime has one slight problem. Tom is a wide crack fetishist, who thinks that real climbing consists of doing a thousand sit ups with your body contorted like a car crash victim. Since I don't routinely climb routes with my legs, he thinks my core strength is lacking. Once a week he's got me doing the core endurance session from hell. A million crunches, side crunches, dishes, leg raises. By the end of it I can only curl up on my bed and whimper. I think he hates me. But you've got to have dedication, and keep your eye on the prize. As Jules' coach wrote to her in an email; NON STOP, NON STOP A MUERTE!!!!!!!!!!!!

1 comment:

  1. Sounds cool and that core strength will be good for the tufas in September. Lots of legs and core needed to make the most of the rests! Venga!!!!

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